O'Cebreiro - Linares - Hospital de la Condesa - Padornelo - Fonfria - Biduedo - Triacastela
Today was a quiet, relaxing day on the path. We did not walk a great distance - just enjoyed the countryside at a leisurely pace. We left 'the hilltop town' of O'Cebreiro around 8.30 and arrived at Triacastela about 5 hours later.
For much of the morning we walked along a high ridge at 1300 metres, with some cloud cover - very pleasant walking weather. The clouds gradually disappeared as the morning went on and by the time we reached Triacastela we were walking under mainly bright blue skies. Our early stop today meant a break from the strong afternoon sun - not that we don't savour every ray of sunshine that comes our way.
Yesterday, less than a kilometre before O'Cebreiro, we crossed from the region of Castilla y Leon to the region of Galicia, known for its unpredictable weather. The Spanish consider Galicia the rainy region (which is probably fair) but then much of southern Spain enjoys sunshine all year round, so it's all relative!
Walking in Galicia for just one day and the countryside already has a more rural feel. We passed by many farm allotments and walked through many tiny farming villages - and, again today, plenty of gorgeous cows along The Way. Some of the small farms and accompanying houses looked poor indeed, and we would not be surprised if many were subsistence farmers.
As we passed one small group of old and ramshackle stone houses, an elderly lady called out to us. She had a plate of thin pancakes on a plate and a glass jar of sugar. She told us the pancakes were made from her 'leche y huevos' (milk and eggs from her farm). She offered them for a donation, and we were glad to make a purchase from her. We asked to take a photo and she was happy to pose, but definitely not with the plate of pancakes. We wondered whether she was reluctant as selling food to passers by is probably illegal or requires a licence. We admired her for her enterprise.
Although there are quite a few pilgrims in Triacastela tonight, the path was not busy at all today. We only passed by the odd one or two pilgrims every now and then, which added to the feel that we were just ambling along quiet country lanes.
We have had the most wonderful weather for the past two weeks, it seems an age ago that we were walking in the rain, wind and even snow! But we know this weather may not last until Santiago, and we're well prepared for that. Our guidebook has philosophical and thought provoking quotes sprinkled through its pages, so we were a little surprised today to come across words of wisdom from Dolly Parton, but we think Dolly has it just right:
'If you want the rainbow, you've gotta put up with the rain.'
We'll remember that over the next few days if the anticipated rain comes our way.
That's all from us for Day 24. Thank you to Ainsley, Pam, Jeanette, Ian, Jo-Anne, Sharon and Jane and David, for your kind emails and comments and for your encouragement.
Mucho amor, hasta luego
Jenny xx and Jill xx
P.S. Not sure if we have mentioned this before, but we started walking on the first day of Spring, the day after daylight saving time started in Spain. The days are getting longer as spring progresses. Sunset is now between 9.30 and 10.00! We love it.