Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Day 16 - Terradillos de Los Templorias to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos(26.9 kms)

Terradillos de Los Templorias - Moratinos - San Nicolas del Real Camino - Sahagun - Calzada de Coto - Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos

Another sunny day on The Camino. We set out early, around 7, and walked a little over 6 kms to San Nicolas de Real Camino for our breakfast stop.

The hospitalero at the Bar Laganares (also an albergue) made us a yummy omelette with chorizo - with our 'usual' caffe con leche, it was a great start to the day. The interior of the bar was charming, though with some unusual and strange artworks. The hospitalero told us they were painted by his sister.

A few hours in, we crossed a small river and came across a hive of activity around the gates leading to an old church. A sign told us that the small church of the Virgen del Puente was undergoing restoration. We walked inside and saw the beautiful restored interiors including the stone flooring in a pattern we have seen often in old and new buildings on the Camino including in the Hotel Roncesvalles. Coming across this restoration project was a special and unexpected highlight.

A little further on we stopped briefly in Sahagun for a caffe con leche and bought some supplies for our three hour stretch in the afternoon which would bring us to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos and the warm and welcoming Casa el Cura. We had delicious snacks along the way, courtesy of Jill's excellent shopping, including an orange, cheese, figs, nuts, and M and Ms! Es perfect.

The day unfolded rather differently from yesterday. We saw few other pilgrims along The Way and the last thee hours it was just the two of us, walking down a red dirt road that reminded us of home. We discovered on our stroll around the village this afternoon that Glenn and Sheryl, Jane and Evan, and Bob are also here, as well as some newer friends, Rod and Chris from Wyoming, and Brent from Germany. We shared a vino with them and caught up on the day's events. We have made a plan to meet with Sheryl and Glenn and Evan Jane in Leon, a few days away. That will be great fun though, we're willing to bet, we'll see them before then.

Our Casa is delightful. We have a spacious room and our own bathroom including bath. We will have dinner here tonight and, breaking with tradition, breakfast before we leave tomorrow as we have an 18 kms stretch first up. We will not see a town, village, farm or house along the way until we reach Reliegos for lunch. This afternoon we bought some provisions at the one local store to keep us going tomorrow until a much anticipated lunch break.

Our photos from today mostly have an 'interiors' theme - from Bar Laganares, the Virgen del Puente church under restoration, and our lovely Casa el Cura (the house of the priests).

Thank you to Julie, Luise and Rosanne for your comments and emails.

Lots of love to all
Jenny xx and Jill xx

Note from Jenny: I walked more tentatively than usual today, with a shin splint to contend with. We have both had a few niggles here and there, though nothing serious and nothing to prevent us from walking on enthusiastically the next day. I'm confident all will be right tomorrow morning with rest overnight as well as Teresa's Chinese herbal patches which miraculously did the trick last time, when I developed a painful shin splint on Day 27. Jill was so kind, checking in throughout the afternoon and encouraging me to take a break. Thank you, Amiga. I appreciate your kindness.


  1. Team,

    Jenny - so sorry to hear of your soreness - thinking of you and i hope you have a bit more joy with your shin today. As Julie said, you and Jill make the walking sound easy, but with those packs and the distances you do each day we appreciate that it is indeed well tougher than it looks and sounds. Aside from 'erb patches - can we all suggest a paella as soon as possible would aid the recovery process. And from Day 9 - my personal favourite - the potato chips dipped in chocolate could only be of benefit. Now that you are well and truly over the half way mark, perhaps you could both sing Lady Gaga's.."We're on the Edge of Glory" along The Way.
    Thank you so much for your ongoing efforts in keeping everyone updated from the front line - sincerely appreciated. The commentary is vibrant and heart felt and the photos truly astonishing. We are all with you and send you support, love and encouragement. Martin xx

  2. Jenny, I hope your shin is okay. Is that why there were photos of bars today? You had to stop for a sherry for your shin?
    Go Jenny! Go Jill!
    Robert x

  3. Hi Jill & Jenny,
    Another absorbing blog with a real contrast of scenery. Jenny I do hope the soreness subsides and you are comforted by the patches etc.
    I love the shot of the unidentified feet on the bed. (looks like Boyle feet to me). And what a lovely room to rest your weary selves.
    Your breakfasts sound delicious as do the assortment of other meals you are enjoying. And the floor of that church is amazing, as are the stone walls.
    For all us golfers back home, we are still on a high after Adam Scott's victory at the US Masters on Monday. Can't imagine you had any news about that. It was truly inspiring, as is this trip you are sharing with us all.
    Stay strong, rest well and sending much love and support.
    Jan x

  4. What an inspiring update again today - just wonderful to start the day with these posts. The surprises, the people, the contrast of dirt track and blue skies - magnificent photos. Have to agree with Martin's culinary recommendations - they both seem apt and indeed necessary! Hope the shin splints are under control? xx

  5. I have finally started my new adventure and I can only hope it is half as interesting as yours. Your blog brings back so many wonderful memories of Spain, the people and the food. Take carer with the shin splints. Hope they don't cause too much distress. xx

  6. Am thinking as I read your blog Jill's thoughts on the mesete-loving,loathing,reflective,peaceful,tough or something else??
    Is it different this time round for you Jenny?
    I'm sure I stayed at this Alburgue last year....
    One of the many great things about Spain are the Farmacia's-they provide a panacea for every ailment-shin splints included.
    Excited that you are approaching Leon-a real favourite of mine-I will stay longer on my next Camino.
    By now you would have heard of the bombings in Boston,
    Stay safe and well-you are both literally eating up the kilometres,
    Phil xx

  7. Hi Jenny
    The recent photos of the Parador de Leon are stunning! Wow!
    I am really enjoying your blog. Its a great way to start the day. I am amazed at your resilience, in awe of the beautiful scenery and envious of the fantastic experience.
    Rebecca x

  8. Hi Girls,
    Leon looks tough. We are thinking of cancelling our bookings at le George V and joining you!
    Good luck,
    Bill and Lilly