Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Day 17 - Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas (24.5kms)

Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos - Reliegos - Mansilla de las Mulas.

Another blue sky day on The Camino. And even warmer temperature. We left our lovely Casa el Cura around 8 and were in shorts and t-shirts by 9am. A new record.

As we mentioned in the last update, we had a long stretch of 18 kms before the opportunity for our all important second caffe con leche and second breakfast or, by then, was it brunch or lunch? Either way, by the time we reached the small village of Reliegos, around 11.45, we were ready to eat. The only bar open at the time was the 'colourful' Bar Elvis where Sinsin, the hospitalero, prepared a ham and cheese omelette. That's Sinsin in the photo, slicing ham for our omelette. Quite a character. As we were leaving the 'mobile supermercado' pulled up just outside the Bar and Jill was quick enough to get a shot!

Today, we enjoyed our long and peaceful walk with just a few peregrinos spotted from time to time. Like us, yesterday they had chosen the quiet 'rural' option over the route along a busy road - the roadside path had the advantage of refreshment stops along the way, but did not appeal to us. The paths did not converge until our resting point for tonight - at Mansilla de las Mulas.

We arrived around 2pm. On our way to find tonight's accommodation we stumbled across a stylish bar full of locals and enjoyed delicious freshly squeezed orange juice, which has become an afternoon favourite in the warmer weather. We revisited the same place in the early evening for a vino with Evan and Jane from New Mexico and Rod and Kris from Wyoming.

By the way, the shin splint situation was sorted overnight with the magic Chinese herbal patch. This remedy has worked its magic for some earlier niggles for both of us, and for those painful shin splints when the 50mg Voltarin in our medical stash didn't make a dent. Not a hint of pain all day, with gratitude to the wonderful TCM practitioner Teresa Lee. Thanks to Teresa, we have a good supply of patches if needed.

Tomorrow we are walking just 18 kms into the city of Leon. We expect to arrive by around 12 and spend the afternoon and evening there. We can let you in on a secret ... we have booked a room at the Parador de Leon hotel. Got a great rate via a few nights ago. We are mucho looking forward to it.

And as if that wasn't enough spoiling, Coach / Martin has just emailed to say we are to have a treatment (e.g. massage, facial) on him. BIG THANK YOU. What a treat to look forward to.

So that's our news for today. Thank you so much for your comments and emails (and concern on the shin splints) to Jan, Robert, Audrey, Rosanne, Jacque, Cathy, Glenda, Phil and Martin.

Hasta Luego
Until next time ... from the Parador
Jenny xx and Jill xx


  1. Hi Girls, I was so pleased to read that Jenny's shin splints have settled,must find out about those magic patches!What stamina you two have.The sight of those "long an windy roads" are a testament to that.I loved the contrast of the Bar Elvis to the serene countryside,what fun!
    What a difference the sunshine makes.You will have a spring in your step as you dream about what is in store for you at Leon. Enjoy to the max!Keep Lindy

  2. Dear Jenny and Jill - over half way and as lots of folk have remarked you make the many days of solid walking seem a mere nothing. Thank goodness for your miracle lady Teresa and her magic potions. So pleased you're not in pain any more Jay and hope you have a good supply of her dressings. It seems preparedness is all on the camino or at least a very important part. Love your very authentic Spaniard with the ham. Can't wait to hear about your night of luxury. Good on you Martin-what a lovely bit of pampering. Wish you blue skies and happy feet. Mum/Helen xx

  3. Hi there. Thanks for the update, and it is wonderful to see how the weather has turned for you. Bar Elvis looks like it must 'rock' at some point in the day/night. How funky and in contrast to your other 'watering holes'. As everyone has said, glad the shin splints have gone - ouch!! enjoy the evening/day of pampering and luxury. Take care and happy walking. Sue

    1. Hi gals,
      I'm so excited for you both, what a lovely treat you have coming your way. You've well and truly earn't it too!
      I had a quick look at the hotel and it looks divine, so please post lots of photos.
      Good to hear the shins are fixed thanks to Therese, the miracle worker.
      Ross and I are finally planning to watch The Way this weekend so it will be good to recognise some of the wonderful sights.
      Stay safe

  4. Hola!
    Great to see the sunshine & warmer weather for you.
    Love the Bar Elvis & Sinsin slicing the ham, & also seeing photos of all the Camino signs along the way.
    How great to have the chinese herbal patches do their magic. As the others have commented, we are in awe that you travel so far every day. You both certainly deserve the pampering & a night of "luxury"! A tough decision, massage or facial (or both)...Enjoy!
    love Jeanette

  5. Hello Jenny and Jill,

    my Name is Jürgen. Iám a friend from Nina. She send me the link of your blog. My Camino in 2010 go from SJPDP - Sahagun. The Part II in June 2013 from Sahagun to Finistere. Its so great to read your blog and see the pictures. Many Places if seen in 2010. I am excited about and looking forward to all the experience and insights I make in June.

    Buen Camino